Tuesday, March 7, 2006

Getting My Bearings!!

320Since I arrived around the 15th of September and courses started up only at the end of the month we spent all the intervening time harvesting grapes in the Val di Chiana or Plain below and putting them through the huge wine press in the cellar . The juice was then poured into 12 gigantic 1000-gallon oaken vats  for fermentation... some of which was reserved for domestic use... meaning us !! ... whereas most would be sold during the coming year at the "mercato" or market in Camucia thereby bringing revenues  to the community for the purchase of other goods and necessities.

During this whole wine-making process I learned a great deal about the structure of power within our walls as well as one minor struggle for power and priveleges among the "hired" help. As mentioned before our legally appointed superior was Padre Canuto.... a big panda-pitbull ,"one of these days , Alice" kind of guys. He was also our professor of Canon Law and looked upon by most as  having  a bigger bark than a bite. However , from the very outset I learned  that any time Padre Canuto acted with authority he always seemed to run it by the balding priest at his right , Padre Natalizia ,   economist and money handler... often referred to by the students as " money bags " who held the purse strings drawn tight on the monastery's frugal financial situation. Padre Natalizia taught moral theology . Then there was our chubby , pint-sized Padre Roberto.... Socius (or friend in Latin)  to the student body.. our immediate superior .... whom I convinced early on that it was imperative that I travel as often as possible throughout the whole of Italy during my stay to get a better grasp and deeper understanding of Italian history , geography and culture . LOL. I'll deal more generously with this aspect a bit later on. Anyways Padre Roberto was a real sweet , mild - mannered character whose academic specialty was Patriarchy.. or the study of the Church Fathers. This triumvirate was the authorative hierarchy for the whole seminary. As for the other priests - professors I shall talk about each one of them in a later post .                                                                                                

Now for the fun guys... the lay brothers and the "hired" help. The role of the lay brother within the monastic framework is that of an auxiliary or aid to the priests in the carrying out of the latters'  missions or ministry... freeing them  , so to speak , from the more menial tasks so that they might deal almost exclusively with spiritual matters.  There were three lay brothers at the college ... Brothers  Valentino , Luigi and Francesco.... Valentino visibly being "numero uno "and my best friend.... the main cog in the wheel who took orders directly from Padre Natalizia , the BOSS !.... while Luigi ruled the kitchen.... Francesco simply helped out wherever he was needed and wielded no power or influence whatsoever. As for the "hired" help... well ! There were three of them.... Cecco , who lived in a room off the kitchen , who had no idea of world geography ...thinking I came from somewhere across the Pianura because  of my funny accent and whose principal job was gardener to the  tracts of arable land allotted for the growing of vegetables and spaghetti inside the courtyard walls. Cecco was a kind wee geezer .. even too gullible to be true and I spent many an hour sitting in the shade with him telling me what it was like under Nazi occupation. The next "hired" help was Nello... called the "Philosopher" by the locals because of his profound views on life in general such as the best ways to get as much out of the system while doing less and all this on a decreasing curve. In other words how could he milk the priests for all they were worth by lulling them asleep with his sweet talk  about how often he prayed to God  , etc . Nello lived with his sister in a rundown rock hut just outside the college walls. Last but not least comes Marconi , our old burly surly Facist-hating bachelor caretaker-guardian whose hut near the entrance gate looked more like a combined machine gun nest and munitions dump than living quarters . At the market in Camucia he started the rumour that he had planted mines all around his place so as to ward off possible thieves... and I for one believed the old buzzard and , as a precaution , would always stay on the main pathway and call out to him should I need to ask him something !! Marconi answered directly to Valentino... il Capo or foreman. In my next post I 'll talk about studies. Deo gratias! 

Sunday, March 5, 2006

La Prima Giornata! The First Day!

283After supper and night prayers in the chapel Belvedere showed me to my room and bade me "buona notte". There was one weakly lit light bulb hanging from a wire over a desk so I could make out somewhat that , apart from the desk , the other pieces of furniture at my disposal consisted of one wobbly wicker chair , a huge heavy-set wardrobe with two swinging doors above and two drawers in the lower section.... ah yes , and one horizontal slab of wood mounted on four iron legs and covered with a " paillasse" or sack full of new mown hay plus a blanket.. so I guessed this to be the bed and straightforth flopped into the latter and sped off to dreamland .

The following morning.. around 11 o'clock I surmise .. I awoke to the steady yet loud beats of distant drums from somewhere below me resounding through the corridors and into my room. I later learned that it was simply the cook , Brother Luigi , beating the hell out of dead animal body parts with a mallet... or as we politely put it nowadays... tenderizing the meat.. for the evening meal. We only got meat once a week and that day was THE day !

So feeling a bit scruffy I went out of my room looking for a toilet and there I immediately bumped into Padre Roberto who kindly indicated that the main bathroom for my floor was just across from my abode and that once I got cleaned up and had a bite to eat he would graciously take me to where the students were hanging out. So when spruced up I found my way out the front door makeshift sandwich in hand to where the chubby little priest was waiting for me beside the college limousine.. a two-seater Lambretta scooter and down the mountainside we flew skirts a flying .. both his and mine.. oh! I forgot to tell you that I was a Catholic seminarian back then.. until we arrived on level ground in the Pianura or Plains. From there through Camucia on dirt roads we meandred at slower speed for maybe one half hour until we came to a huge mortar and rock 15th century building and then Padre Roberto explained that the students were all here working in the college vineyards as it was "vendemmia" time .. the big moment in the year when grapes for new wines were harvested. He invited me to take off my habit (cassock) , roll up my sleeves , handed me a knife , fitted me out with a cone-shaped basket with straps which I was to carry like a packsack and pointed to the slave labour force off in the distance.

When the students saw me coming.. like the old phrase , " They saw you coming!".. they burst out laughing.... now they saw what I had been hiding under my cassock... North American clothes.... shoes with socks as opposed to sockless sandals , jeans in a jeanless Italy at that time plus my Bugs Bunny Tee-shirt and beret whereas they were doomed to wearing the old heavy felt Roman hats . As a child I had always wanted to grow up to be as clever as Bugs , as kind as Porky Pig without the stutter and Elmer Fudd without the lisp, as wily as Daffy Duck and much brighter and as likeable a guy as poor Sylvester Cat. So since there was only friendly laughing and no guffaws and given my "jocular" and jovial disposition I laughed along with my comrades. They thereupon told me that food was on the way and that we would be eating right there picnic style in the vineyard.

Not long after this we spotted three rather beautiful young girls coming towards us .... one bearing a huge basket brimming over with hot "homegrown" spaghetti , the second toting a big tray full of dishes and ustensiles while the third , a slightly smaller wee maiden carried an armful of loaves of bread. The spaghetti had been prepared at the main farmhouse where two families lived and worked the land for the college owners receiving a certain percentage of the harvest each crop season for their labours and the right to live there freely... almost like being catapulted back to the days of feudalism where the fiefs worked for the landlords and recieved their protection and certain rights in return. No exchange of money at all !!

However , after a copious meal we worked our fannies off until roughly 6 o'clock when Padre Canuto , the Father Superior , arrived "on" his limo.. a Vespa scooter... to signal the workday over and the beginning of the long 15- kilometer trek back up the mountain to the monastery. He was a comical guy who reminded me of Jackie Gleason.. except much fatter..and on that Vespa even looked hilarious. SO we put our knives back in their sheaves and helped load the big truck which the college had rented for transportating the grapes back home where they would undergo fermentation in huge vats in our wine cellar. Then we set out for San Alfonso.

After such a long day we were all hungry so we did justice to the meat that night along with ample servings of potatoes accompanied by a delicious full-bodied Tuscan red wine to wash it all down.. and , of course , the five fresh figs for dessert! Followed night prayers and lights out ... Deo gratias !!

P.S. When looking over the Calcinaio Church and to the right up the mountain you can see the college.

Friday, March 3, 2006

A Monk From Siberia!!

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This is a short poem  to a friend of mine who actually acted out the following limerick in real life 35  years ago today. For true sound effects it must be read out loud with a Kennedy Boston accent.




                                             There once was a monk from Siberia ( or Wisteria )




                                              Who in his cell day by day got wearier




                                              So with a hell of a yell




                                              He jumped out of his cell




                                              And ran off with a Mother Superior

Wednesday, March 1, 2006

La Prima Notte !! The First Night !!

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Valentino escorted me down a long austere dimly lit corridor ...baggage and all... until we finally came to two massive wooden doors which suddenly swung wide open from inside and I found myself stepping into a huge rectangular refectory . The students were all seated backs to the walls  around the room with the priest-professors at the  head table  to the right at the far end of this huge hall. As I entered the refectory they broke out into applause. I learned later that Father Superior had put off the evening meal until I arrived since I had called from Florence to let him know I was coming in on the 7 o"clock train. The next item on the protocol was for me to make the rounds shaking hands with each and everyone from the priests on down to the students and lay brothers. Then Father Roberto , the Socius , alloted me my place at table between Carmine Belvedere and Franco Martino which I would keep during my years there at San Alfonso.By this time I was beat.. literally pooped out and was thinking only of tucking myself into a soft bed for a long nap since this was the end of a three-week  momentuous , party-on , sleep-when-you-can trip . However , I was hungry so I sat down and dug into a humungous bowl of "pasta asciutta".... short hollow lengths of pasta covered with an olive oil based sauce... plus a big hunk of homemade bread  and to wash all this down a carafe or boccetta ( roughly a pint) of red wine.... and 4 fresh figs for dessert. During the meal I noticed a lot of commotion among the students with one guy running around with a piece of paper and a pencil .. he seemed to be asking questions and taking down notes. Finally my neighbour on the left , Carmine , told me that it was time for me to take on the best in the house .... at least that is what I understood with my basic knowledge of Italian as I had only spent two weeks studying the language just before I left Canada. When they set up a table and two chairs in the middle of the dining room it hit me at last ..... I was to sit out there and take on their best arm wrestlers one after the other to determine where I fit into the student pecking order  , so to speak. It was a tradition so I decided to go along with the flow and reap what came my way. To skip the tra la lee , tra la la nobody could beat me ... not even two of the  young priests , Velocci and Bonizzato ,who were rather sturdy fellows.  I was in excellent physical shape .. having played hockey , football  and baseball all my junior years whereas these boys were the end result of years  of suffering and undernourrishment during  the Mussolini regime and the Nazi occupation. Anyways before the evening was over the Superior , Padre Canuto , wished me "benvenuto".. welcome..... and forthwith named me to my first appointment at San Alfonso.... Director of Physical Education ( more like a glorified coaching job...lol) and I was to whip all the students and professors into acceptable shape during the Winter months.Amen for this evening.

Above is a pic of what I called the birdnest in yesterday"s blog. The outer fortifications are easily seen if you look closely. A true mountain walled-in city nestled high in the Appenines.